Tuesday 18th June, 2019
The scenery changed as soon as we came down from the pass after the border crossing and everything turned to green. It was made even more striking having spent the last few days in beautiful but bleak landscapes in shades of grey and brown.
We immediately noted the contrasts. Yurts in the meadows and horses, lots of them! As we came down in altitude, we started to see more red earth and red rock formations.
We made it to Osh, in time to have a walk through one of the oldest and busiest bazaar in Central Asia.
Wednesday 19th June, 2019 – OSH –
After spending the morning getting the tyre problem sorted out, we took the road to Arslanbob. We followed the main route to Bishkek, so it was pretty good and a nice change from bumping up and down all day. We took the turn off to Arslanbob, in a valley perpendicular to the road, 40 km after Jalal-Abad. We camped a few kilometers from the village alongside a stream.
Thursday 20th June, 2019 – Arslanbob
We continued on the road to the village and met a succession of large herds being moved to pastures.
Arslanbob is at the centre of a vast relic walnut forest, covering 11,000ha. There are several legends attached to the name but what is certain is that the forest predate the 11th century. It is also a pretty village, essentially Uzbek ( not far from the border and the eastern part of the Fergana Valley). The quality of the walnuts have long been recognised and they were one of the goods transported west along the Silk Road, when at its prime. Walnuts are still an important part of the region’s economy today.
There are 2 waterfalls within hiking distance of the village and we went to the “large waterfall”, initially following a dirt road in the car and trekking by foot for the last hour or so, going steeply uphill. This is a tourist spot and there are stalls selling drinks and cheap souvenirs on a small jailoo (Kyrgyz name for summer meadow) just before the last couple of hundred metres to the view point. There is an ugly chicken wire barrier at the top , stopping you from going too close and it is a bit of a shame as it spoils the view of the waterfall.
View to the valley and Arslanbob, on the way up.
After lunch we came back to the village and rejoined the main road, this time to go to another valley further along where Lake Sary Chelek lies.
The scenery alternated between cultivated areas, especially near the border with Uzbekistan and more mountainous views. This also turned to not so pretty mining sites, some abandonned before the turn off for Arkyt and then the road again went through lush green jailoos and red rock formations. We found an ideal camping spot, away from the road and with views.
Girls on their way to school
Camping spot 
The view
Friday 21th June, 2019 – LAKE SARY CHELEK
We drove the remaining 50 kms or so to the lake, going through Arkyt village which is the gateway to the Biosphere Reserve. ( entrance fee for foreigners KS 900 for 2 people and the car- around 13 dollars). The road then turns to a dirt road leading to the lake, with lots of wild flowers by the side.
Sary Chelek means “Yellow Bucket”. The Lake is relatively small and stands amid conifer and relic fruit and nut forest at 1,873m. It is popular with the local and we came across lots of minibuses going to the lake. We understood later that it was “vipustnik day” i.e the last day of school for School Leavers and they came to the lake with their family and friends to celebrate.
There are a couple of “tchaikhona” (tea houses) by the lake and places where you can cook you own “Shashliki”.
We did a small hike along the lake and decided to come back to the camp spot of the previous night and relax there.
Saturday 22nd June, 2019 – TOKTOGUL
Rejoined the road to Bishkek and drove along the man-made Toktogul reservoir. The town away from the shore has no particular appeal but it is a convenient stop on the way to the capital. We booked in a hostel with WIFI and a nice interior courtyard.
Sunday 23rd June, 2019 – CHAEK
We had no intention to go to Bishkek, so took the turning to the Suusamyr valley, leading to Chaek and a turning for Lake Song-Kol, one of the famous Kyrgyz Lakes.
Ala-Bel Pass ( 3,135m) on the way to Suusamyr
The road after Suusamyr had some impressive views:
Not long after Kyzyl-Oi, before Chaek, we picked up 2 hitchhikers who were going to Min-Kush in a different valley. They had been waiting by the side of the road for most of the day and had only seen 1 car! Both were French students (Thibaut and Clara) on an extended summer break and were planning to hike from Min-Kush to Karakichi before making their way to the Lake too. They were pleased to get a lift, especially as the weather was turning.
After dropping them off, we carried on for a while, before settling for the night near a field of pink flowers ( a crop) and superb views
Monday 24th June, 2019- KARA-KICHI – SONG-KOL LAKE
We continued on the track , going through Kara-Kichi. This is a mining settlement which appeared to be abandonned but as we climbed up the pass we understood that the main activity was away from the road and that the site covered a vast area.
We arrived at Lake Song-Kol at midday. There are a number of Yurt camps for tourists, some not very authentic ( with a PVC door!). There is a track going round the lake and we followed this for a while before setting camp on the western side of the lake. We went for a hike giving some panoramic views.
