Saturday 14th and Sunday 15th December, 2019 – Phnom Penh
Busy place with a fair number of tourists meaning you can find cuisine targetting western taste as well as asian. Some nice colonial houses but also some grotty areas and usual markets.
Top of the list for most visitors is the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. This is a grim reminder of the slaughter of innocent people by the Kmer Rouge during their reign of terror from 1975 to 1979.
The site is a former secondary school which was used as Security Prison 21 by the Khmer Rouge regime, a secret facility for the detention, interrogation, torture and extermination of those deemed “political enemies” of the regime. Due to a policy of guilt-by-association, at times whole families were detained at the center. Only 12 former inmates survived the opening of S-21 when Phnom Penh was liberated. Four of them were children. Some of the classrooms we used for interrogation and torture and others were divided into small cells, barely big enough for a man to lie down. The museum chronicles the Cambodian genocide. The Kmer Rouge left detailed accounts of their barbarism taking black and white photos of their victims, before and after torture… This is not for the squeamish. During early 1977, when the party purges of Eastern Zone cadres were getting under way, S-21 claimed an average of 100 victims a day.
The sheer ordinariness of the place makes it even more horrific: the suburban setting, the plain school buildings and the grassy playing area where children kick around balls, juxtaposed with rusted beds, instruments of torture and wall after wall of disturbing portraits.
Between 1975 and 1978, some 20,000 people held at S-21 were taken to the killing fields of Choeung Ek, 8km outside Phnom Penh and brutally murdered. Today a Memorial Stupa, stands there, erected in 1988 and containing more than 8,000 skulls.
Monday 16th December, 2019 – Bavet
Drove to Bavet with the intention of crossing into Vietnam but we were stopped by Customs as we did not have a special permit from the Department of Transport to bring the car into the country. The officer would not budge, we tried to explain our case but to no avail. We contacted an agency but were told it would take at least 3 days, more likely 8 days and would cost USD 1,000 so we declined and we had no choice but to re-enter Cambodia (buying new visas, USD 60) and make our way to the Laos border in north Cambodia, by-passing Vietnam altogether.
Tuesday 17th December, 2019 – Kampong Cham
Kampong Cham is on the Mekong river and we decided to treat ourselves with a nice room with a view in one of the top hotels ( USD 30 so not exactly breaking the bank!). Western standards with hot water tap at the sink in the bathroom, bath and shower: a luxury. We also had a nice meal in a local retaurant where I tried Fish Amok ( river fish curry, very tasty), followed by Fried banana in cane syrup, yummy!
View onto the Mekong
A bamboo bridge is rebuilt every year after the rainy season to link the town to a village on Ko Paen island in the middle of the river. It takes a month to build and is 1 km long, just wide enough for cars but not sure I would attempt to cross it by car !
The most popular place in Cambodia to glimpse Southeast Asia’s remaining fresh water Irrawaddy dolphins. Kratie is a riverside town on the Mekong with French era architecture legacy.
The best place to see the dolphins, if you are lucky, is actually 15km north of Kratie in a small place called Kampi. We were assailed by touts trying to sell tours to see the dolphins when we drove through Kampi and we did not stop as we already saw them during our trip to Laos 6 years ago.
We took small roads and saw rural Cambodia with houses very near the river, people eking a living from fishing and cultivating small plots of land. Somes houses were no more than derelict wooden shacks but were still lived in. Most have electricity (and satellite dish sometimes) but no running water as far as we could tell. Instead they collect water in big earthen pots and wash in the river.
At one point we took a road leading to the river where a small ferry was waiting, loading cars and passengers. We got on thinking it was going to the big sand bank in the middle of the Mekong, near Kratie but in fact it was going to the other bank of the river with no direct road going north so after driving around for a while we took the ferry back and resumed our journey. We saw mango trees with plenty of ripening fruit, coconut and turnip sellers by the side of the road. The rice harvest is mostly over, only straw stubs remain in the fields, but here and there there are some green paddy fields.
Got to Stung Treng early afternoon, last stop before crossing into Laos in the morning
Not a very pleasant drive as the road is being enlarged to a dual carriage way and this creates lots of dust on long stretches of unpaved road. It is also very busy with lorries. Once in Battambang we had a walk through the old part of the town. There are a few colonial type houses but not so many.
Took the N5 out of Battambang down to Pursat where we were pleased to get off the busy road and take a smaller road going through the Cardamon Mountains. The road was asphalted initially but we soon hit dirt roads. The earth here is a deep reddish brown and the trees and bushes were so covered in dust that they lost all their colour. There are plenty of small rivers and we had to cross on some rickety bridges. One of them had lost its planks and only the supporting logs were left. We had to aim the car carefully so as to avoid getting stuck!
There was no suitable areas for camping along the road but luckily we drove by the Osoam Cardamon Community Centre, where we asked if we could park in their compound for the night. This is a project designed to encourage eco-tourism. People can come and stay the night and go trekking in National Park.
Wednesday 11th December, 2019 – Koh Kong
The road goes around the various “tentacules” of a massive reservoir. We passed 4 dams, built and managed by the Chinese who appear to have quite a number of projects in Cambodia.
The town of Koh Kong is nothing special. We walked through the market, quite dirty, meat and fish are on display in the open air with flies swirling all over. We have noticed a lot of rubbish is lying everywhere, alondside the roads, near people’s houses, outside shops…. People do not seem to mind and just drop their litter wherever they are. Rubbish collection is probably non-existent but still… People seems to sit around a lot too, or just lay in hamacs or on makeshift beds, even in the shops, waiting for customers.
Thursday, 12th December, 2019 – Kampot
We drove south, through the “Koh Kong conservation corridor”. This area includes the most extensive mangrove forests on mainland Southeast Asia and 16 distinct eco-systems.
We stopped at the Tatai Waterfalls on the way to Kampot.
Tatai Waterfall
Other scenes on the way:
Kampot
This town has a pleasant setting on the bank of a river. It’s known for its pepper plantations and salt fields. Many buildings date from the colonial period, and it has its charm. There are lots of guest houses and a good range of restaurants serving different cuisines and the town comes to life in the evenings. The french influence is palpable.
There are a couple of so-called “supermarkets ” in town but they are geared to tourists with imported goods on the shelves and very expensive!
Kampot pepper plantations were practically wiped out under the Khmer Rouge regime but interest has been rekindled and there are now a few plantations producing pepper for both local and export markets. We went to one called simply ” La Plantation” run by a franco-belge couple. The setting of La Plantation was carefully selected to ensure a high quality end-product ( combination of soil, water and protection from the heat/ wind). Free tours are on offer where the basics of the growing and harvesting are explained ( all done by hand as machinery would damage the peppercorn). This is followed by a tasting session, where you munch on a selection of green, black, red and white peppercorns as well as various mixes. (a total of 15 combinations at least!). All excellent!
We moved on a bit further down the coast to the small fishing town of Kep. This town is reknown for its crab and we went to the crab market.
There are some salt fields in the area too but the one we saw did not seem to be still in use.
We drove to the border after visiting Phanom Rung. It was getting dark by the time we got through. The officer mentionned that there was a hotel only a couple of 100m away. We were surprised to find such a fancy hotel in a remote border town but it turned out that there are a couple of casinos there, built to entice Thai visitors who are bused in free over the border.
Friday 6th December, 2019 – Preah Vihear
This temple complex sits just on the border with Thailand and the ownership has been disputed between the two countries with military deadly clashes afterThailand occupied the temple in 1954, following Cambodia’s independence . This went on despite a judgement in favour of Cambodia in 1962 at the International Court of Justice(ICJ) and the dispute was not resolved until november 2013 when the ICJ declared in a unanimous decision that the 1962 judgment had awarded all of the promontory of Preah Vihear to Cambodia and that Thailand had an obligation to withdraw any Thai military, police, or guard forces stationed in that area.
Situated on the edge of a plateau that dominates the plain of Cambodia, the Temple of Preah Vihear is dedicated to Shiva. The Temple is composed of a series of sanctuaries linked by a system of pavements and staircases over an 800 metre long axis and dates back to the first half of the 11th century AD. This site is particularly well preserved, mainly due to its remote location. It has some exquisite carved stone ornamentation.
Saturday 7th December, 2019 – Siem Reap
In Cambodia, as well as tuk-tuks, you see all sorts of motorised vehicles, often overloaded or carrying 4 or 5 passengers when it is designed for 1 or 2 maximum. Motorcycles/ scooters are everywhere and we have seen some driven by kids no older than 7 or 8 ! Some vehicles are mobile shops going from village to village, selling their wares.
Siem Reap
We arrived in Siem Reap mid-afternoon. This is the town closest to the temples of Angkor. The site is managed by a commercial outfit and it is reflected in the price of the tickets: a one-day pass will cost you USD 37, a 3 day -pass USD 62 and a 7-day pass USD 72 ! When you know that there were more than 2 million visitors last year, this is big business… The pass is issued with your name and picture and is controlled at the entrance of each temple. If you buy your pass after 5pm you can use it on that day ( for sunset views) and the whole of the following day so this is what we did.
Temples of Angkor
The Temples of Angkor are the legacy of the vast political, religious and social centre of the ancient Khmer Empire. At its zenith the city had a population of 1 million when London was a small town of 50,000! None of the houses, public buildings and palaces have survived because they were constructed of wood, as the right to dwell in structures made of brick or stones was reserved to the Gods.
The site is huge and is divided into Angkor Wat ( temple) and Angkor Thom ( or Great City, which itself is set on over 10 sq km). Five grand entrances allowed access to the capital city – five towering face gates – one for each cardinal point, and the Victory Gate leading to the Royal Palace area. Each gate is crowned with 4 giant faces and framed by elephants wading amongst lotus flowers.
The South entrance Gate
Victory Gate
Bayon Temple
We arrived at Bayon Temple at sunset. The temple is situated at the center of Angkor Thom. It was built in the late 12th or early 13th century as the official state temple of King Jayavarman VII. It reflects the genius but also the inflated ego of the king. Its 54 towers are decorated with 216 enormous coldly smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara, which bear more than a resemblance to the great king himself. These huge faces seem to stare at you from every angle exuding power and control.
Sunday 8th December, 2019
Last night, as we were driving back from the temple, we realised that the annual half- marathon was on this Sunday. Thankfully, the first race started at 5:30 am and by the time we arrived at 8 am it was over and the roads clear. We had one day to visit so we concentrated on the major temples.
Prasat Ta Prohm
The construction of this temple, originally called Rajavihara, started in 1186. Today its crumbling walls are taken over by roots of centuries-old trees. Many of the corridors are impassable because of creeping plants and shrubs. It was in fact used as a location in the film “Tomb Raider”.
Prasat Ta Keo
Ta Keo is a temple-mountain, possibly the first to be built entirely of sandstone by Kmers. It has five sanctuary towers, built on the uppermost level of a five-tier pyramid consisting of overlapping terraces (a step pyramid), surrounded by moats, as a symbolic depiction of Mount Meru.
Terrace of the Elephants
The 350m long Terrace of the Elephants was used as a giant viewing stand for public ceremonies and also as a base for the king’s grand audiance hall. It is so called because parading elephants decorate each end.
Terrace of the Leper King
The 7m high terrace is topped by a statue once believed to be that of a leprous king. However, it is thought now to be that of Yama, the god of death and that this site was used as a royal crematorium. The front retaining wall is decorated with at least five tiers of meticulous carvings of seated apsaras (celestial nymphs).
Prasat Preah Khan
This is one of the largest complexes at Angkor and is thought to have been a Buddhist university, housing more than 1,000 teachers. The complex is within a rectangular wall of around 700m by 800m and was more a city than just a temple. Built by King Jayavarman VII who turned from the Hinduism of his predecessors to Buddhism, this is a genuine fusion temple where both Hindu and Buddhist deities were venerated.
Preak Neak Poan
This small temple is built on a circular island in the middle of 4 square pools.
Angkor Wat
This is the most iconic temple of the Angkor complex and represent the ultimate expression of Khmer genius – an awe-inspiring temple that is stunning for both its grand scale and its incredible detail.
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat is the earthly representation of Mt Meru, the Mt Olympus of the Hindu faith and the abode of ancient gods. It is believed to be the world’s largest religious building.( the site is measuring 162.6 hectares). It is a source of fierce national pride and is represented on the Cambodian flag.
In the end we saw more than we thought we could do in one day!
Yesterday, a policeman at the ticket office mentionned that people could go and camp at the Tourist Police station near Angkor Wat so we went and checked it out. There were two camper vans already there. We stayed the night and it was fine. We could have the use of toilets and outdoor kitchen. The only drawback was the early rise in the morning as the officers had a “rising of the flag” ceremony at 7 a.m in the courtyard with loud salute and hymn singing. One of the officers asked to take a picture of us and the car to add to their notice board.
The main reason to go to Kamchanaburi is to see the 300m railway bridge made famous by the film “The Bridge Over the River Kwai”. The bridge stands 2.5km from the centre of town and was the site of a Japanese operated WWII prisoner-of-war camp where many lost their lives due to poor conditions and bad treatment. The bridge was bombarded by the Allied and only the outer spans are original. Trains still run through the bridge today.
There are several Museums dedicated to this sad chapter and you can go and pay your respect at the Allied War Cemetery where 6,982 POW’s are buried ( British, Australian and Dutch).
Thailand – Bridge over the River Kwai
Thailand – Bridge over the River Kwai
Thailand – Bridge over the River Kwai
Thailand – Bridge over the River Kwai
Thailand – Bridge over the River Kwai
Saturday 30th November, 2019 – Erawan Falls
Erawan National Park is about 90kms from Kanchanaburi and is popular for a day out, enjoying the refreshing pools of the Erawan Falls. A 2 km trail leads you up the mountain to a succession of waterfalls and pools where you can have a dip if you do not mind the fish in the water. There are 7 different pools.
Sunday 1st December, 2019 – Ayuthaya
Arrived early afternoon and went straight to the Historical Park to visit the ruins of the famous “Fallen City”. Ayuthaya was the pinnacle of ancient Thai history. It was built at the confluence of 3 rivers on an island and was named after the home of Rama in the Indian epic Ramayana. The city flourished from 1350 onwards but was repeatedly assaulted by the Burmese and finally succombed after 2 years of war in 1767. The city was looted by the Burmese and the Thais re-established their power centre near present day Bangkok.
There are many temple ruins but we visited the main ones.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet
The most iconic picture of Ayuthaya are the 3 chedi (stupas) of this temple. It was built in the late 15th century and was the largest of the city. It was used by several kings and once contained a 16m-high standing Buddha, covered with 250kg of gold, which was melted down by the Burmese conquerors.
Wat Phra Mahathat
Built in 1374 during the reign of King Borom Rachathirat I, this temple has a central prang (Khmer-style chedi) and rows of headless Buddha images.
Wat Chai Wattanaram
Built in 1673, this Buddhist temple has an impressive central Khmer-style prang, 35m high. We were there at sunset and the stones had a nice warm yellow-orange glow.
Wihaan Phra Mongkhon Bophit
This modern sanctuary hall houses one of Thailand’s largest bronze Buddha images, most likely dating to the 15th century. Coated in gold, the 12.5m-high figure (17m with the base) was badly damaged by a lightning-induced fire around 1700, and again when the Burmese sacked the city. People come and pray here and you can see a small Buddha image partially covered by small gold leaf pieces donated by believers. This is common in Thailand where offerings are made to Buddha. The offering can be in form of money, flowers, fruit, incense sticks or gold leafs.
Bronze Buddha
gold leaf offerings
Monday 2nd December, 2019 – Bangkok
Quick dash into Bangkok to go and collect my new passport.
Making our way east towards the Cambodian border. We crossed a huge plain with more agricultural activity. We saw lorries loaded with a root vegetable / tuber, brown skin, white inside and very firm almost like wood .( could be cassava??) Women were chopping them by the side of the road.
Chopping cassava?
Chopping cassava?
Phanom Rung
This is one of the largest and best restored ancient Khmer sanctuaries in Thailand. The complex is built on top of an extinct volcano, facing east towards the sacred capital of Angkor in Cambodia. Built from 10th to 13th century, it was initially a Hindu monument before it was converted into a Buddhist temple.
Four times a year, the sun shines through all 15 sanctuary doorways. This solar alignment happens during sunrise (April and September) and sunset (March and October).
Prasat Muang Tam
This site is only 4km away from Phanom Rung and is worth a visit. It was once a shrine to Shiva and dates from 10th/11th century and would have been the urban temple of the area as opposed to Phanom Rung which was a pilgrimage destination. The central brick towers are consistent with a late 10th century design but like many of Angkor period sites, it was upgraded by successive rulers and kings. There are some nice lintel carvings too.
Took the small roads and stopped on the way at Pat Meng Beach, used by locals. Krabi is a busy place as it serves as base camp for exploring the province of the same name, a lush region of jungles, limestone cliffs and idyllic isles.There are numerous tour operators all vying for your business to take you to the islands, including the one made famous ( Phi Phi island) by Leonardo DiCaprio in the film “The beach”.
Ban Plai Ton is a small fishing village on the east coast, about 5km south of Sichon. I had read online about a fish market happening there so we decided to go and have a look.
We arrived around 8 am and the market was already in full swing. I had some sweet waffles and some donut balls with chilli paste, both very nice. I also tried the Thai coconut griddle cakes called Khanom krok . This is a sweet snack but I was not so taken by it and could not really taste the coconut.
Khanom krok
Not far from Sichon, we saw some monkeys at work, picking coconuts. These monkeys are trained by coconut farmers. They are on a long leash and climb the trees to dislodge the coconuts which fall on the ground, ready to be collected by the farmer.
Further down the coast we crossed a bridge to go on a small island. This is essentially a chinese fishing village, called Ko Raet.
Took a turning off the main road to Thap Sakae and ended staying in a small bungalow on the beach.
View from the bungalow
deserted beach
Thursday 28th November, 2019 – Hua Hin
The road to Prachuap Khirikhan goes through pineapple plantations. We stopped on a small road near a field where people were picking pineapples. One of the ladies could speak some english and explained that the workers were making 300 Bhats per day (around £ 7). They cut open a pineapple for us to taste: sweet and very juicy! They also gave us one to take with us and a big papaya.
In Prachuap Khirikhan we climbed the steps to Khao Chong Krachok
Thailand – Khao Chong Krachok
Arrived in Hua Hin late afternoon. This is a beach resort reachable from Bangkok and there are lots of hotels catering for tourists (local and international).
We stopped for lunch in Kuala Lipis, a small town on the way to the Cameron Highlands. Most shops were closed as it was Sunday but we were drawn to a food stall doing brisk business selling BBQ chicken (almost like indian chicken tikka) served with plain rice. It smelt and tasted delicious!
The Cameron Highlands is a scenic hill station which dates from the 19th century. The highlands were founded by a British colonialist named Sir William Cameron and were named after him, and were modeled on a traditional English village. Temperatures in these 1300m to 1829m heights rarely top 30°C and the aim was to provide residents in the lowlands with some respite during the summer months and allow them to enjoy the cooler climate here. ( It was noticeably cooler, no more than 20 C when we were there and as it is the rainy season we had heavy downpours too!)
One of the big draws here is the chance to go strawberry picking. In keeping with its British history, you can stay in traditional style colonial buildings here as well as enjoy typical treats such as English cream teas ! The region is known for its sweeping tea plantations. You can visit the Boh Tea Plantation where you can enjoy the lush green terraces and learn how the tea is harvested and grown. The Boh Tea Company was founded in 1929 and is one of the most famous brands of tea in Malaysia.
Monday 18th November, 2019 – Gunung Brinchang- Tanah Rata
The weather was not so good but decided to go to the ” Mossy Forest” anyway. The access is from a narrow road going through tea plantations initially but then twisting all the way to a high point on the way to Gunung Bringchang. There is a board walk at the top but, by then, we were in the clouds so gave it a miss.
We drove back to Tanah Rata, one of the major centers of Cameron Highlands. The scenery could be nice but it is blighted by a forest of plastic green houses covering large surfaces of the hills all along the valley. The local economy relies heavily on the revenue from this greenhouse farming ( fruit, vegetable and flowers) but it spoils the landscape completely. The only highlight was the tea plantations.
Tuesday 19th November, 2019 – Pangkor Island
Cameron Highlands to Pangkor Island
Pangkor Island lies 15mn by ferry ( pedestrian only) from the west coast. It is essentially a destination for local tourists. We spent a couple of hours on the beach before returning to the mainland. We saw some hornbills, Malaysia’s national bird.
Georgetown is Penang Island’s capital city and one of the most interesting and colourful cities in Malaysia. Named after King George III, walking down the streets of Georgetown is like walking through the paths of history. It was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in July 2008.
Penang is reputed to have the best street food in Malaysia and there are plenty of hawkers to sample and buy from. The food reflects the multicultural heritage and you can choose from Malay, Chinese, Thai, Indian and European dishes.
The Peranakans , descendants of the first chinese settlers ( from the southern provinces) also referrred to as Baba-Nyonya played an important role in Penang’s history but also in part of southern Thailand and in what is now Singapore. They were usually traders, the middleman of the British and the Chinese, or the Chinese and Malays, or vice versa because they were mostly English educated. Their ability to speak 2 or 3 languages also helped to cement their position. Some became extremely rich and today some of their mansions have been converted to museums where you can learn about their customs, their opulent lifestyle etc…
We visited the Peranakan Mansion. This was the residence and office of a 19th-century Chinese tycoon, Chung Keng Quee. . The rooms are furnished with rosewood and mother of pearl engraved furniture, often over decorated. The more interesting part are a couple of galleries dedicated to traditional clothes, wedding attire, beaded slippers and jewellry. The Peranakan retained most of their ethnic and religious origins (such as ancestor worship), but assimilated the language and culture of the Malays. The Nyonya’s clothing, Baju Panjang (Long Dress) was adapted from the native Malay’s Baju Kurung. It is worn with a batiksarong (batik wrap-around skirt) and 3 kerosang (brooches). Peranakan beaded slippers called Kasot Manek were hand-made with much skill and patience: strung, beaded and sewn onto canvas with tiny faceted glass cut beads (known as Manek Potong) from Bohemia.
The Chinese heritage is felt throughout the city with several interesting temples and the Clan Jetties. Billed as one of the last bastions of old Chinese settlements on the island, this waterfront society is home to houses on stilts of various Chinese clans. Today six jetties remain, each named after a Chinese clan.
Initially, the area where the Clan Jetties now lie was a wood yard littered with planks and firewood. After the construction of the Quay in 1882, the waterfront was developed with short public landing stages or jetties. Settlements grew on these foundations and they were used for the loading and unloading of goods and for the mooring of sampans (boats). Gradually, each jetty became identified and dominated by certain clans and over time more huts sprung up. Due to constant rivalry over access and monopoly of work consignments, relationships between the clans were very antagonistic and often led to bitter fights and disputes.
We wondered through the old part of town and admired the colonial type houses, some in desperate need of attention. There is an important street art scene in Georgetown ( in the Banksy style) and the most popular pictures are amongst the favourite photo opportunities for tourists !
On our last day in town, we walk past a shop selling durian cakes and we decided to give them a try. ( more about durian fruit below). There, we met Ignatius and his wife, originally from Indonesia but living in the States. We got talking and after a while, they invited us to go and try “chinese bird’s nest” in another shop they knew about.
Chinese bird nest is one of the most expensive foods in the world, with a price of up to $2000 per kilogram (according to Wikipedia). The nests are made of the hardened saliva of the male swiftlet, a type of swallow found in many coastal caves of Southeast Asia. Sounds weird, but the cooked nest is almost tasteless and has the texture of jelly. It is often served sweetened and has quite a refreshing taste. We had custard tarts with birdnest topping, osmanthus jelly with bird nest and coconut jelly with bird nest ( served in a coconut of course! ). We also had chrysanthemum tea, a popular summer drink in south east Asia. All with a subtile taste and very refreshing. Thank you Ignatius and Ina for the lovely time spent with you. (Ina, sorry if I have your name wrong…)
Ignatius and Ina
bird nest feast
Durian
The durian fruit is popular in Southeast Asia, where it’s nicknamed “the king of fruits.” However, it also gets a bad rap due to its strong smell. The flavor is described as tasting like cheese, almonds, garlic, and caramel all at once. The smell is so potent that the fruit is banned in many hotels and public transport systems in Southeast Asia. Durian is used in sweet and savory dishes.
Friday 8th November, 2019 – Wednesday 13th November, 2019 – Kuala Lumpur
Flew in from Bangkok and spent a few days in Kuala Lumpur, waiting for the truck to arrive and go through customs clearance at Port Klang.
Kuala Lumpur is a big city, famous for the Petronas Twin Towers which are still the tallest in the world at 88 storeys ( though not the tallest tower individually) but still very impressive and the city’s landmark. The business quarter looks like any western city with skyscrapers, huge shopping malls where all the high end brands are present. In the older part of the city, you can see traces of its rich colonial past and on top of this you have the added bonus of excellent street food with a mix of malay, chinese and indian as well as european food.
Thursday 14th November, 2019 – Melaka
Arrived yesterday evening after driving from Port Klang where we collected the car. It was a relief to find everything intact.
In the 15th century, Melaka was one of Southeast Asia’s greatest trading ports. The port thrived after the Chinese granted protection to the local inhabitants from attacks by Siam and Jakarta and became a major trade settlement on the trade route between China and India, the Middle East, Africa and Europe. The Portuguese soon arrived and took control of the city in 1511. It was not for long as in 1641 the Dutch took control and ruled Melaka until 1798. Melaka was ceded to the British in the Anglo-Dutch Treaty in 1824 and remained under British rule until 1942.
This colonial past can still be seen today and the historic centre was crowned a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2008. The Porta de Santiago, a small gate house, is the only part of the fortress built by the Portuguese which still remains today. It is among the oldest surviving European architectural remains in Southeast Asia and the Far East.
Stadthuys
This former town hall and governor’s residence dates to the 1650s and is believed to be the oldest Dutch building in the East. It functioned as State Government offices until 1979. Erected after the Dutch captured Melaka in 1641, it’s a reproduction of the former Stadhuis (town hall) of the Frisian town of Hoorn in the Netherlands. Today it’s the main building in a sprawling museum complex and houses some interesting exhibits retracing the local history and explaining local customs.
Dutch Square
The focal point of the Unesco Heritage zone, this attractive and elegant square is surrounded by Dutch-era buildings that have been painted crimson, shady trees and a mass of kitschly decorated trishaws waiting for customers. the fountain erected in 1904 in memory of Queen Victoria is decorated with four bas-relief images of the monarch.
Cheng Hoon Teng Temple
Malaysia’s oldest still-operating Chinese temple, constructed in 1673, remains a central place of worship for the Buddhist and Taoist communities here. The local Chinese community funded its restoration. Traditional methods were used throughout, from the ornate roof ceramics to the painted tigers by the door. Though the temple is dedicated to Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy, it is also a multifaith temple, with Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian elements and effigies.
We then wandered round the streets of china town.
Friday 15th November, 2019 – Saturday 16th November, 2019 – Taman Negara
On the way to Taman Negara National Park, saw some typical old wooden houses on stilts. According to tradition, the house would have 3 set of stairs: the front stairs for visitors or special guests, side stairs for family and friends and back stairs, leading straight to the kitchen… for women folks!
We also saw lots of oil palm plantations ( mostly own by Sime Darby, the world’s largest producer of Certified Sustainable Palm Oil ). 84 percent of the world’s palm oil is produced in Malaysia and Indonesia.
Palm oil is part of our everyday life and is used by many manufacturers of baked goods, confectionery items, shampoos, cosmetics, cleaning agents, washing detergents, toothpastes and more. Palm oil can also be used as a substitute for crude oil to make biofuels and as a fuel to be burned in power stations to produce electricity. But the picture is not all rosy, Palm plantations have resulted in major deforestation , loss of natural habitat for endangered species and threat to indigenous people and exploitation of the workers. They contribute to the increase in greenhouse gases and carbon emission. Some governments have started to take measure to limit new plantations, manufacturers are replacing or looking for alternative to palm oil but we still have a long way to go…
We drove on to Kuala Tahan which is a small settlement on the Tembeling river from which you can enter Taman Negara National Park. (the access to the park is on the other side of the river).
Taman Negara, which means “national park” in Malay has a total area of 4,343 km2 and it is one of the world’s oldest deciduous rainforests, estimated to be more than 130 million years old. It was created in 1938 and is the largest national park in Malaysia.
One of the attractions is a canopy walk, a 510 meters long suspension bridge between high treetops (said to be the longest in the world). You can walk over it, and enjoy spectacular views at heights of over 45 meter. ( it is in fact a succession of 6 suspension bridges). There is a network of short trails from which you can observe some wild life but you need a guide if you want to go deeper into the jungle.
We did the canopy walk and carried on the trail up to one of the view points called Bukit Teresek. The trail is mainly on a board walk but the last 30 mns are steep stairs and quite challenging under the weather conditions. You get a nice view as a reward though. On the way we spotted a wild pheasant ( bigger than a hen), some monkeys (maquaque I think), skink lezards and a poisonous viper! The latter was pointed out to us , resting on a branch just off the trail . You could hardly see it and can only imagine what would happen if you just brushed against the bush as you walked by…( it can be fatal if you do not get medical attention within 5 to 6 hours).
Went to the French Embassy to get my passport renewed as I only have one blank page left. Submitted the application and should get a new one in 3 weeks time !
We walked towards the centre and stopped at Wat Traimit, Temple of the Golden Buddha. It houses a 5.5-tonne statue of a seated Buddha. The gold sculpture dates back to the 13th century and measures 5 metres in height. The solid gold Sukhothai-style Buddha image was originally covered in plaster, but its original façade was revealed after movers accidentally dropped it.
Bangkok – Wat Traimit
Bangkok – Wat Traimit
We then went on to Jim Thompson House.
Jim Thompson was an american architect and entrepreneur who fell in love with Thailand after serving there during the Second World War and came back to Bangkok to live. He collected parts of various derelict Thai homes and had them reassembled in their current location in 1959 to create a unique showcase of thai architecture. His small but splendid Asian art collection and his personal belongings are also on display in the main house.
He is also credited for reviving the local handmade silk cottage industry after sending samples to various fashion houses in Europe and turning it into a profitable business.
He disappeared in mysterious circumstances in the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia in 1967 and his body was never found.
Wednesday 6th November, 2019 – Bangkok
National Museum
The museum is on the site of a former minor royal palace, built in 1782. It has several buildings housing exhibits ranging from religious statues and artifacts to musical instruments, royal jewels, ceramics etc… The history wings gives some insight in the prehistoric Sukhotai-Ayuthaya period.
I particularly appreciated the videos showing the process of mother of pearl furniture engraving and handpainted ceramics.
There was also an excellent special exhibition on the discovery and history of the chinese Terracotta Army.
On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at a local wholesale market where mountains of pineaples, coconuts were on display.
Thursday 7th November, 2019 – Bangkok – Grand Palace
We took a small ferry on a canal near our hotel and this took us right near the “Golden Mount” in the old part of town.
The Temple of the Golden Mount, or Wat Saket, is a low hill with a pointed golden temple (chedi). It’s built on the site of a earlier, failed temple building that turned to rubble and became a hill. Wat Saket was once the highest point in Bangkok.
Wat Saket was built in the late 18th century, although it has been renovated since then. At the base, there is a tree-covered cemetery holding the remains of thousands of plague victims from the late 18th century. To get to the top of the chedi you have to climb 344 steps that circle the structure. At the top, you are afforded views of many famous temples and landmarks, including the nearby Grand Palace.
We were there just before the annual festival held in the first week of november (candle lit procession) and the Chedi was wrapped in red cloth for this important religious festival.
Bangkok – Canal commuting
Bangkok – View from the top of the Golden Mount
Bangkok – View from the top of the Golden Mount
Bangkok – View from the top of the Golden Mount
Bangkok – Golden Mount Chedi
We continued on our way to the Grand Palace, going through a quarter selling religious items , large and small , you are spoiled for choice!
Bangkok – Religious wholesaler
Bangkok – old town
The Grand Palace
The Grand Palace was built in 1782 and for 150 years it was the home of the Thai King, the Royal court and the administrative seat of government.
Grand Palace complex
Within the palace complex are several impressive buildings including The Temple of the Emerald Buddha, which contains the small but famous and greatly revered Emerald Buddha that dates back to the 14th century.
The Buddha image is actually carved from a single block of jade (not emerald). Raised high on a series of platforms, no one is allowed near the Emerald Buddha except HM the King. A seasonal cloak, changed 3 times a year to correspond to the summer, winter, and rainy season, covers the statue. The changing of the robes is performed only by the King to bring good fortune to the country during each season. ( no photos are allowed inside the temple).
Kyoto has many sites to visit but we headed first to the most famous one: KinkaKuji Temple, the Golden Temple.
Kinkakuji (金閣寺, Golden Pavilion) is a Zen temple whose top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf. Formally known as Rokuonji, the temple was the retirement villa of the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and according to his will it became a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect after his death in 1408. Kinkakuji was the inspiration for the similarly named Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion), built by Yoshimitsu’s grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, on the other side of the city a few decades later.
Kinkakuji is an impressive structure built overlooking a large pond, and is the only building left of Yoshimitsu’s former retirement complex. It has burned down numerous times throughout its history including twice during the Onin War, a civil war that destroyed much of Kyoto; and once again more recently in 1950 when it was set on fire by a fanatic monk. The present structure was rebuilt in 1955. (You can wander through the park but you cannot go inside the Pavilion).
We then went down the road to the Ryoanji Temple.
Ryoanji Temple (龍安寺, Ryōanji) is the site of Japan’s most famous rock garden. Originally an aristocrat’s villa, the site was converted into a Zen temple in 1450 and belongs to the Myoshinji school of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism.
The garden’s date of construction is unknown and there are a number of speculations regarding its designer. The garden consists of a rectangular plot of pebbles surrounded by low earthen walls, with 15 rocks laid out in small groups on patches of moss. An interesting feature of the garden’s design is that from any vantage point at least one of the rocks is always hidden from the viewer
Along with its origins, the meaning of the garden is unclear. Some believe that the garden represents the common theme of a tiger carrying cubs across a pond or of islands in a sea, while others claim that the garden represents an abstract concept like infinity.
Ryoanji’s garden is viewed from the Hojo, the head priest’s former residence. Besides the stone garden, the Hojo features some paintings on the sliding doors (fusuma) of its tatami rooms.
Tuesday 17th September, 2019 – Kyoto – Gion District
We visited Nijo Castle and went to the Imperial Palace but it was closed on that day for some holiday so we decided to go to the Gion district instead.
Gion is a traditional entertainment district lying north and south of Shijo Street, and stretching from the Kamogawa river in the west, as far as Yasaka-jinja Shrine in the east. Originally, this shrine was called Gion Shrine, and the entertainment area developed here to service its many pilgrims with food and drink.
Later, as kabuki drama became popular on the Gion district’s western edges, more sophisticated forms of entertainment were developed for the theater-goers, and so today Gion is known as Kyoto’s most famous geisha district. The streets and side alleys are lined with preserved machiya houses many of which now function as restaurants, serving Kyoto style kaiseki ryori (Japanese haute cuisine) and other types of local and international meals.
Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto’s dining establishments, where guests are entertained by geiko (Kyoto dialect for geisha) and maiko (geiko apprentices).
On the way we walked down Pontocho Alley, reputed to be the most beautiful street in Kyoto and had a rest along the bank of the river Kamo-Gawa. You see a lot of people wearing the traditional yukata (cotton kimono for men and women) which are available for rental in many places.
Wednesday 18th September, 2019 – Kyoto- Fushimi district
Today we headed to the Fushimi district which is a traditional sake brewing district along the willow-lined Horikawa River in southern Kyoto. Revered for the clean, soft water that flows in abundance from the river’s underground springs, the district is home to nearly 40 sake breweries. Fushimi has been one of the leading sake brewing districts in the country.
Among the local breweries is industry giant Gekkeikan which was founded here in 1637. We visited their museum explaining the sake brewing process with many exhibits, did some sake tasting and then walked in the local streets where many of the district’s buildings have preserved their traditional appearance with wood and white-plaster walls. Sake breweries are recognizable by the cedar ball “sugidama” hanging from the roof.
Sugidama (cedar ball) denoting a brewery on the street
Fushimi Inari Shrine
The shrine is nice enough but the real attraction is the thousands of vermilionTorii gates which form a path starting behind the shrine and going all the way to the top of sacred Mount Inari ( 233m high).
Inari is the Shinto god of rice. Foxes are thought to be Inari’s messengers, resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds. They often hold some symbolic object in their mouth such as a key to the granary.
At the very back of the shrine’s main grounds is the entrance to the torii gate-covered hiking trail, which starts with two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii (“thousands of torii gates”). The torii gates along the entire trail ( 4km long) are donations by individuals and companies to bring them good luck, and you will find the donator’s name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. The cost starts around 4,000 USD for a small sized gate and increases to over 10,000 USD for a large gate. More are added all the time….
Thursday 19th September, 2019 – GIFU
Gifu Prefecture is a landlocked region but it is famous for its cormorant fishing on rivers. We arrived in Gifu town just in time to take a tour on special wooden long boats from which you can see traditional cormorant fishing .(a demonstration show put on for tourists…) on the Nagara river.
There is a small museum where you can watch a video explaining the whole process before you go onboard and it is just as well, as what you see on the boat is limited. The fishing is done at night and the only light is coming from a brasier on each fishing boat. You can barely see the birds in the water.
Ukai -cormorant fishing – has a history of around 1,300 years. Ukai is a traditional night fishing method in which an usho (Cormorant Fishing Master) and u (cormorant birds) work together to fish by the flames of Kagari-bi (fishing fire lanterns).
There are six usho Cormorant Fishing Masters working the Nagara River, and their skills have been carried on by hereditary succession within their families. The cormorants are trained to nab the fish, A snare around the bird’s neck stops it from eating the catch, although it is allowed to keep every eighth fish as a reward. The Usho wears a skirt made of straw for its water repellent properties and stands at the bow of the boat holding the strings of up to 8 birds at a time. The birds are carried onto the boat in a special basket.
Friday 20th September, 2019 – Kanazawa
The road we wanted to follow was closed and sometimes this things happen for the best. We ended up on small roads with great scenery and nice houses.
Kanazawa has many historical attractions but the one we really wanted to see was Kenrokuen (兼六園) , classified as one of Japan’s “three most beautiful landscape gardens”.The spacious grounds used to be the outer garden of Kanazawa Castle and were constructed by the ruling Maeda family over a period of nearly two centuries. Opened to the public in 1871, Kenrokuen features a variety of flowering trees which provide the garden with a different look for each season.
We arrived late afternoon and may be we did not see the garden at its best but we were disappointed ( we preferred “Yushien” the garden we visited on the first day in Japan which, though small, seemed to have all the relevant qualities).
There were a couple of nice areas, some of the trees were supported by poles due to their size/ age .
Saturday 21st September, 2019 – Kanazawa
We went to the old “pleasure quarter” where Geisha entertained their customers. A couple of former houses have been kept as museums and are open to the public. We wandered through the old streets.
Sunday 22nd September, 2019 – WAJIMA
The town is known in Japan for its lacquerware, called Wajima-Nuri in japanese.
There are artifacts showing lacquer was used to decorate and strengthen a shrine door from the 14th century. Wajima-nuri uses a technique that is unique to the area, mixing a finely powdered mineral, jinoko, with the lacquer in the early stages of production for extra durability. The rougher, earlier layers are then coated with more layers of finer lacquer, which is polished to a lustrous shine, and often decorated with designs made of gold and other precious materials.
Lacquerware is used in everyday items such as bowls, chopsticks, tea ceremony trays, decorative and ceremonial objects etc.. but in view of the cost it is more likely to be used in special occasions only !
We strolled through the daily morning market where fresh seafood, lacquerware, and other handicrafts are on offer. There are also numerous shops selling the famous lacquerware and an interesting museum at the Lacquerware Center.
Up the coast, not far from the town, there is a small Senmaida ( paddy fields) but the weather was not with us( another typhoon on the way) and it is rather small. There are actually 1004 fields which are either owned and tended to by families, or rented out and looked after by the locals. Each year in the last week of September two couples are drawn from a nationwide lottery to have their wedding ceremony at Senmaida. The event is open to the public.
Wajima -Senmaida
Monday 23rd September, 2019 -Nanto – Shirakawa-go and Gokayama
At the Michinoeki ( rest stop) where we camped last night we found out there was a festival happening at Nanto today. It is normally held in the temple grounds but has been moved to the local gymnasium because of the typhoon. the Mugiya Matsuri Festival is held every year over a couple of days.
Preparations were still going on when we arrived but soon we were invited to take part in a lesson and learn the traditional “hat dance”. Two dancers did a short demonstration and then a teacher put us through our paces. Not that easy!
We then let the professional show how it is done and we watched a few dances accompanied by live traditional music.
We then took the road to Shirakawa-Go and Gokayama, two Unesco World Heritage villages with typical thatched A-frame buildings, built in a style of rustic architecture known as gassho-zukuri (“praying hands”).
Tuesday 24th September, 2019 – TAKAYAMA
Takayama is known as a “little Kyoto” for its gridiron street plan and preserved, historic, wooden buildings. The city is also famous for its traditional crafts, fine sake and spring and autumn Matsuri festivals.
Takayama Matsuri is one of Japan’s most famous festivals, when ornately decorated floats (known as yatai) are paraded through the city streets in a procession of people in Edo Period costume accompanied by sacred flute and percussion music. We were too early to see the autumn Matsuri, held in October, but 4 of the 11 floats used in the parade are on display on a rotation basis, at the Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan (museum). The floats are known for their detailed and colorful carvings, lacquer- and metalwork and amazing marionettes (karakuri).
Arrived late in Koyasan and found a parking space for the night just opposite one of the shrines.
In the morning, we saw pilgrims come and pray.
Traditional wooden Geta sandals
Mount Koya ( Kōyasan) is the center of Shingon Buddhism, an important Buddhist sect which was introduced to Japan in 805 by Kobo Daishi (also known as Kukai), one of Japan’s most significant religious figures. A small, secluded temple town has developed around the sect’s headquarters that Kobo Daishi built on Koyasan’s wooded mountaintop. It is also the site of Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum and the start and end point of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage.
We drove on to another site of pilgrimage : Kumano Hongu Taisha, a Shinto shrine located in the deep and rugged mountains of the Kii Peninsula. It is included as part of the Kumano Sanzan in the “World Heritage Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes “.The main deity enshrined is Kumano Gongen . All of the ancient Kumano Kodō routes lead to the Grand Shrine.
The Grand Shrine is reached at the top of a long path and series of steps, it is surrounded by large cedar and cypress trees. Its wooden architecture fits perfectly with its surroundings.
Torii Gate: The Torii is a gateway, that signals the transition from the profane to the sacred, as it is usually located at the entrance to Shinto shrines, though it isn’t rare to find them even at the entrance of Buddhist temples.
Shimenawa”Sacred rope” The rope tied around a shrine space, or across its entrance, to mark its sacred nature is called the shimenawa. Traditionally woven from hemp, but nowadays more frequently rice or wheat straw, this rope and its shide paper streamers is a common part of New Year decorations as well.
On the way to Katsuura, we stopped at the Nachi Falls, the tallest in Japan at 133 m and are part of the “Sacred Site and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range” UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Hiryu-jinja Shrine stands in front of the Nachi Falls , the auxiliary shrine of the Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine. The Hiryu-jinja Shrine has no honden (main hall) because the falls itself serves as the object of worship. Even the splashes of the falls are believed to have the divinity of long life.
Further up the mountain is a group of buildings, including the Pagoda. This version was built in 1971 to mark the three hundredth anniversary since the original burned down.
Thursday 12th September, 2019 – KATSUURA
The largest volume of freshly caught tuna in Japan is brought into Katsuura Fishing Port. A highlight here is the morning market where large quantities of tuna are auctioned off in a lively atmosphere. The auction is all over by 8 a.m so we made sure we were there early!
Later, we drove further south down the coast to Hashigui-Iwa Rocks. There, 40 odd looking rocks stand in the sea on a line which makes them look like pillars of a bridge, stretching 900m from the shore to Oshima Island. Legend says that Kobo Daishi ( the monk who founded Koyasan above) built this natural marvel!
Friday 13th September, 2019 – Katsuura
Last night we heard some public announcement made on the loudspeaker in the town and it turns out that it was announcing an incoming typhoon. We had strong winds and rain all night. It was still very strong in the morning so we decided to stay put.
Saturday 14th September, 2019 – Maruyama Senmaida
Weather is still grey and overcast but we decided to start on our way up to Kyoto. We stopped at Maruyama-Senmaida which is one of the best such sites called ” thousand paddies”. ( Where large numbers of terraced rice paddies cover a hillside, the area is known as tanada (terraced paddies) or senmaida (a thousand rice paddies).
Maruyama-Senmaida was built on the steep mountainside over a period of 400 years. According to local records, in the 16th century, there were more 2,200 paddies. By the 1990s, this senmaida was down to just 500 paddies in cultivation, and then local preservation efforts began . Some scheme was set up where people would commit to revive and maintain a paddy. Today, there are a total of 1,340 rice paddies. These have to be cultivated entirely by hand due to their small size and it is hard work !
Sunday 15th September, 2019 – NARA
Japan’s first permanent capital was established in the year 710 at Heijo, the city now known as Nara. Before that date, the capital used to be moved to a new location whenever a new emperor ascended to the throne.
However, as the influence and political ambitions of the city’s powerful Buddhist monasteries grew to become a serious threat to the government, the capital was moved away from Nara to Nagaoka in 784 and a few years later to Kyoto.
Nara is located less than one hour from Kyoto and Osaka. Due to its past as the first permanent capital, the city remains full of historic treasures, including some of Japan’s oldest and largest temples. Most of them are situated in Nara Park. The most famous one is Todaiji Temple ( “Great Eastern Temple” ) constructed in 752 as the head temple of all provincial Buddhist temples of Japan.
Until recently, Todaiji’s main hall, the Daibutsuden (Big Buddha Hall), held the record as the world’s largest wooden building, despite the fact that the present reconstruction of 1692 is only two thirds of the original temple hall’s size. The massive building houses one of Japan’s largest bronze statues of Buddha (Daibutsu). The 15 meters tall, seated Buddha represents Vairocana and is flanked by two Bodhisattvas.
Todaiji Temple
Bodhisattva
We also visited Kasuga Taisha, one of Nara’s most celebrated shrines. It was established at the same time as the capital and is dedicated to the deity responsible for the protection of the city. Kasuga Taisha has been periodically rebuilt every 20 years for many centuries however, the custom was discontinued at the end of the Edo Period (end of 19th century).
Kasuga Taisha is famous for its lanterns, which have been donated by worshipers. Hundreds of bronze lanterns can be found hanging from the buildings, while as many stone lanterns line its approaches. The lanterns are only lit twice a year during two Lantern Festivals, one in early February and one in mid August.
Kasuga Taisha
We had a walk through the old part of town with narrow streets and typical wooden houses.
You often see little shrines in front of houses, such as this one
On a different level, you are never far from a drinks machine which are everywhere , in residential areas and along the roads even on country lanes.
