Friday 3rd May, 2019
Took the road early today. The next 2 days will be spent crossing the desert that spreads across most of the north east of the country.
We left Kashan in the direction of Zavareh, a small town which was an important centre on the trade routes in Sasanid times until the late 11th century. The covered bazaar, sadly now virtually empty must have been impressive . There was some renovation work going on in the Hosseiniyeh Hall (congregation hall for Shi’a mourning ceremonies during Muharam month, the first month of the islamic calendar ) and the great metal “alams” were gathering dust! ( these are carried during the ceremonies )
Alams
The Masjed -e-Jame is considered one of the first mosque in Iran to be built on the four -ivan courtyard plan in 1135. It has a beautifully carved plaster Mirhab with koranic verses in Kufic script.
Kufic inscription
The landscape was monotonous with a road that ran straight for miles on end. We passed numerous danger signs for camel crossing but never saw any…
After almost 500 kms we reached the small village of Mesr in the central desert of Iran called “Dashte-Kavir ” in persian and drove to Farahsad, the last settlement on the asphalted road. From there was the open desert with only tracks leading to a salt lake and sand dunes.
We ventured a few kms in and admired the landscape ….
Sand blowing over the dunes
… before setting camp for the night. This was going to be a night for star gazing.
Saturday 4th May, 2019
Resumed our route to Mashhad, driving through Tabas. The temperature definitely went up today and it was already 32degrees at 10 am. By late morning it was 38 degrees and we were only in early May….
Petrol stations were far and few between. Diesel is only used by trucks and buses and not all stations have it. Another problem is that you need a special card to purchase diesel and we have to rely on the goodwill of truck drivers to let us use their allocation. They sometimes agree reluctantly and only for half a tank or less. On the plus side, it is so cheap that you can fill up for less than 4 dollars….
The landscape was getting greener as we approached Ferdows where we stayed the night
Sunday 5th May, 2019
Last stretch to Mashhad and out of the desert. Arrived mid afternoon and had no problem finding a hotel as the city is the most important religious centre of the country and caters for a large number of pilgrims who come here from all over the country and abroad, especially from the Middle East.
Monday 6th. Tuesday 7th May 2017
Visited the shrine to the 8th Imam (Imam Reza shrine). Huge complex divided into 4 courtyards with mosque, mausoleum and madrassah.
You cannot bring any bags or cameras into the complex and you have to go through a metal detector( airport style) before entering. Ladies have to wear the chador (available free of charge) and cover their hair completely.(you are quickly reminded to do so by one of the officials if any hair is showing).
Some of the pilgrims come with a piece of green cloth ( holy colour) which you can buy in the shops and stall around the shrine. They rub it on the side of the tomb and bring it back home where the cloth will be cut in small pieces and given to family and friends to bring them God’s blessing.
On Tuesday we got our visas to Turkmenistan. then drove to an old caravanserai East of Mashhad. In Fairly good condition considering that it dates back to the 12th century.
Rubat Sharaf Caravanserai 
Wednesday 8th May, 2019
Left Mashhad and drove north to get closer to the border. Stopped overnight in Quchan.
Thursday 9th May, 2019
Last day in Iran. Left early to get to the border at Bajgiran and cross into Turkmenistan.
