Tuesday 25th June, 2019
From Song Kol Lake we had 2 options, go around the lake and rejoin the road that goes to Kochkor( north -east) or take a small dirt road going south to Baetov(o) and then south -east to Tash Rabat, before going back north to Kochkor. We took a gamble as we did not know the state of the road and headed south. It paid off as the road, although dusty was not bad and was well used by locals. We had some fantastic views as a bonus!
We started to climb up towards the Moldo-Ashuu Pass (3,346m) going through green jailoos at first and then through a very twisty road.
At a view point, some local men, offered us some kumys (mare’s milk, fermented with a low degree of alcohol). The smell was very smoky and an acquired taste! The season for kumys is from early summer to September and this is very popular. It is normally prepared by nomads and sold alongside the road in plastic bottles. It is credited with having some health benefits. The men were out on a party and they had obviously had something a bit stronger as they seemed to be very merry! We made a quick exit: we did not want to be behind them on the road.
We came down a valley with a complete change of scenery, almost desert like with only a few tuffs of hard grasses growing, passing on the way what appeared to be a small village in the distance but was in fact a cemetery. This is common in Kyrgystan, and are called ” cities of the dead”. Each tomb is an elaborate mud brick construction resembling a house or sometimes the metallic birdcage like frame of a yurt. They are a unique feature of the countryside and are often standing a little way outside the village, on top of a low hill and are frequently more impressive than the village itself.
We also came across some old mausoleum of local heroes
As we climbed yet another pass, we were rewarded with some spectacular views of a long canyon dug by a river in the red/orange soft stone and a multitude of ripples in various shades of orange, yellow and pink going through the valley.
Top of the pass:
… and we settled for the night with another splendid site… although the weather quickly deteriorated and we were battered by strong winds and rain whilst the storm blew over us.
Wednesday 26th June, 2019 – TASH RABAT
Tash Rabat was only 30 km away and we got there just before 10 am. We had to find the keeper to open the gate to the building.
Tash Rabat is a 15th century caravanserai that sheltered merchants and travellers along one of the wildest stretch of the Silk Road. It is on the road leading to the Torugart Pass and China, less than a 100 kms away.
It is tucked away from sight, half buried in a hillside, up a valley at 3,530m altitude. It is entirely built of stones, around 36m long , with a central hall surrounded by a network of 30 ,or so, small rooms which would have served as bedrooms, prison cells, pantries and prayer rooms etc. There is also a well. The building was a place of rest but also of protection from both bandit attacks and the sometimes atrocious weather.
We rejoined the main road that leads to Naryn and stayed there the night.
Thursday 27th June, 2019 – Friday 28th June, 2019 – KOCHKOR
Kochkor is a small market town that stands at the crossroads of many visitors on their journeys between the capital Bishkek in the north and the south eastern Naryn province. It is also a gateway to Lake Issyk-Kul and the Terskey Ala -Too mountain range.
We did a hike towards Lake Kol-Ukok. A dirt road ( quite bad) leads up to a river crossing , some 15 km from town where you have to leave the car and continue on foot. We were short in time and did not complete the whole trek but once you have crossed the river you are on the Tez Tor jailoo with a few yurt camps and nice views down the valley.
