Durango is still a long way from Guachochi ( around 650 km). we noticed a strong presence of both police and military on the road. Vehicles on patrol with armed soldier standing on a platform in the back as look out and road blocks to check cars. We were stopped a few times but simply asked to show our documents.
This is because of the strong presence of drug gangs/cartels in this area, producing marijuana and opium. We are not that far from the Golden Triangle (where three states meet Chihuahua-Sinaloa and Durango).
Scenery alternating between arid land and cultivated fields, we lost the mountains for a while but never that far.
Arrived in Durango (pop. 1.8 million), capital of the state of Durango, around midday and managed to find a Motel at a reasonable price and within walking distance of the historic centre!
We went for a wander and had lunch at one of the numerous little restaurants offering cheap local food. I had Torta Mexicana: a hot bun filled with fried egg, ham, peppers and chorizo and Paul, quesadilla: a corn tortilla filled with meat and cheese cooked on a griddle.Both very yummy! and a change from our daily menu….
The historic centre has a long pedestrian street bordering the Plaza and the Cathedral. We are close to the Dia de Muertos, one of the main annual celebrations in the calendar and the plaza was festooned with colourful bounty and pictures of deceased people who were remembered on that occasion. as well as decorations around the” “Day of the Deads” theme: squeletons, zombies, coffins etc…
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Continued on our way to Guadalajara. Camped between corn fields last night and it did get quite cold in the early hours ( down to 3C).
Stopped at Teul de Gonzalez Ortega, a small village, one of the 132 “Pueblo Magico”in the country.
PUEBLO MAGICO: Only selected towns and villages meeting a set of criteria can benefit from this label, an initiative from the Secretariat of Tourism to promote towns that offer visitors special experiences because of their natural beauty, cultural richness, traditions, folklore, historical relevance, cuisine, art crafts, and great hospitality. It is intended to increase tourism to more localities, especially smaller towns in rural areas.
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GUADALAJARA
We booked an AirB&b and it worked very well for us. The small flat was on the first floor accessed from the street by metal stairs, covered in boungainvilleas and passion fruit plants. we could also park the car in the courtyard behind locked gates. The flat was 15 mns walk to the train going to the centre: perfect !
Guadalajara is the capital of Jalisco state. It is known for tequila and mariachi music, both born in Jalisco. Guadalajara’s historic center is dotted with colonial plazas and landmarks such as the neoclassical Teatro Degollado and a cathedral with twin gold spires. The Palacio del Gobierno houses famous murals by painter José Clemente Orozco.
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Tomorrow, November 2nd, is the official Dia de Muertos and we will go to a suburb of Guadalajara reputed for its festivities on that day.
